Hello and Salam Warga BBM. I'm sharing my experience travelling solo to Papua about a year ago. I spent 2 weeks in the mountains and travelled to Raja Ampat after. This to me is a unique destination to give some ideas for travellers, explorers and BBM members who crave for a true adventure. It is good to keep our dreams alive hoping that we could all travel again when the borders are open
Here's my epic adventure in Papua. Photos and article are solely mine. Enjoy them ❤
PAPUA TOOK MY BREATH AWAY....
This is my tale of the uncharted route. It is the free-spirited me on a quest to recapture my sense of wanderlust. It is to fix cravings for a dose of adventure.
Going through several mishaps at the start of my trip didn't dampen my spirit to keep going. Awful flight delays and my hiking guide went missing in action at the start of the journey was the first few mishaps. I landed in a town where internet access wasn't easily available. My plan to start trekking on Day 1 of arrival went down the drain due to horrendous flight delays. I was overtired after over 24 hours journey and I couldn't get in touch with my guide. So I jumped on the back of a bike at the airport and asked the local Papuan to take me to an affordable hotel. I haven't got anything booked. I decided to find somewhere comfortable for the night. I desperately needed a good rest. Please bare in mind that the price of accommodation is very costly in Papua. A very basic room in a homestay with detached bathroom costs RM250/ night, with basic breakfast. I managed to find a decent accommodation and decided that I'll think about my guide the next morning. Thankfully I heard from him before I fell asleep and arranged to start the trek the next day.
Travelling to me isn't just about witnessing stunning sunset with sands between my toes but becomes more memorable when experiencing hardship and beauty all at once.
It its well over 24 hours to Papua. I flew from KL-MAKASSAR-JAYAPURA-WAMENA. I didn't put a night in a hotel during transit as my lay-over were meant to be between 4-6 hours. I didn't have a check-in suitcase either, I'm a light traveller, regularly travelling with just a rucksack. This gives me a lot of flexibility when travelling and I don't lose time checking- in nor do I need to wait for baggage upon arrival. I slept on airport benches on transit, using my cikgu hammock sometimes and paid for airline lounges to rest between flights.
The first day was tough. 6 hours trek, long steep ascend, slippery downhill, extremely muddy tracks and very narrow path with 90 degrees vertical drop. The jaw-dropping views and the trail so rugged, so wild made the journey worthwhile. The friendly Papuan who never failed to greet 'Selamat Siang' offering handshakes left me smiling. I offered my biscuits and snacks that to the locals whenever I stopped for breaks and nearly ran out forgetting that I couldn't get anything else on the mountains but rice, potatoes and sweet potato leaves!
Stopped at a village called Hitugi on the first night. I was totally flat out after 2 nights of having very little sleep. There's only instant noodles available for dinner. I was starving, I ate without any hesitant.
My room was basic, as expected. It was a chilly night so I slept in my jumper, trousers and zipped up my sleeping bag up to my head! I slept solidly until I heard mountain rats running across the roof!
I only hired my guide for the first 3 days of my hike. I stayed in local villages and decided to ask the locals villagers to take me out on treks for the entire 2 weeks I was there. I had fun trekking the valleys with my new little friends. Children as young as 6 years old took me out of 2-3 hours treks, without any other adult supervision (except me!) We trekked to waterfalls and rivers and through the valleys. I spend my time with them teaching them English. I have the habit of carrying frisbees with me when I travel. They absolutely love throwing frisbee. We sang songs and they even taught me the tribal language.
I enjoy my evenings in the mountains. The local villagers regularly visit their neighbours and we hang out in 'honai', a circular thatched roof room which is a kitchen, dining area, bedroom and social area Fire the villages. It is warm in honai too. I love spending my evenings having a laugh with them, sharing with stories about the world outside their valleys, showed them photos on my phone and talk about life. I once struggled to explain to them what a lift is! They thought I climbed up and down the stairs to the 24th floor of my condo! LOL! It breaks my heart listening to their hope and dreams for independence. I cried so hard before I left and I promised them i will be back.
Papua is totally a wonderful surprise, it certainly is far better than what I dreamt it would be. The beauty of its rolling hills is absolutely breathtaking, the amazing tone of its greenery is so therapeutic, the beautiful scent of its grassland and flowers so refreshing it. It is so wild, rugged and very very beautiful. What which really carves a special place in my heart however is its people. They've welcomed me into their homes, into their family with an open arm.
Baliem Valley Festival held annually is great opportunity to understand the local tribal culture. Professional photographers from around the world gather in Baliem Valley specifically for this event every year.
Life's hard in Baliem Valley. The locals survive on sweet potatoes, rice and instant noodles (if they have enough money) sago and sweet potato leaves every day, 3 times a day, 7 days a week! Most children don't go to school. Pigs are Christmas and special occasion treats. No meat or marine produce at all. Barely any nutritious vegetables except what's grown in the valleys. Electricity don't exist. Phones don't work. Water is scarce. Kids as young as 5 years old helped their family carrying fully loaded 20 litre bottles up and down the valley after collecting water from the river. They wash their vegetables, dishes and clothes in the river too. On my days living with the villagers, I went for 'mandi' in the river, I washed my clothes there too and helped the villagers with their daily chores. They kept telling me not to though, but I insisted. They barely have anything but will give everything they have. That alone leave me with teary eyes. Rice is luxury. Sago is their staple food other than sweet potatoes (ubi bakar) I once bought 1kg of rice thinking I could have it for the entire I was in a village but I didn't have the heart to allow veryone else watch me eating rice while they eat sago. So I ended up buying rice due the whole village for a few days I was there.
I've learned what I went through whilst experiencing the real Papuan life isn't hardship at all. These are the things that's taught me to persevere, strengthen my mind, opens up my heart, smile a little more, keep spreading love and share an endless happiness. It makes me feel so grateful for the life I have.
If you craved something a true adventure, Papua should be on your bucket list. Just brace yourself for living without basic necessities- no electricity, running water or phone connection! I promise you it's totally worthwhile!
I ended my travels in Raja Ampat. Spent a week there, just enjoying the serenity of its stunning islands.
Here's a few tips. Travelling to Papua isn't cheap and requires a lot of researches. I spent weeks looking at the geography, history, safety and logistics aspects of it. I didn't use any travel agents. I never do. I carve my own travels. I booked my guide through a homestay. Bare in mind that internet connection is very poor in Wamena. It took me 3 days to book a flight out of Wamena! The internet wasn't reliable at all. Guide and accomodation in Wamena are costly. I think I paid RM200 for a day for my guide (without food or accommodation in the villages) I heard most other travellers paid up to RM500/a day. A guide is highly recommended for your safety. The trek can be tough, crossing rivers up to your knee, steep sections and muddy puddles. Definitely required for female travellers. No signs in the mountains and gps don't work.
I flew to Jayapura to get medical attention. I had awful infection by some unknown bugs. The steroid cream and tablets I brought didn't work. I had to pay RM250 for a 45mins flight for a RM40 injection! Despite all the mishaps I went through, I had the best the of my life.
I would return to Papua in a heartbeat!
You may follow my travel tales on Instagram:
http://Instagram.com/epicadventuress
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