Tuesday, December 31, 2019

Papua- Indonesia Last Frontier

PAPUA- Indonesia's Last Frontier

I spent over 3 weeks travelling solo in Papua recently, just before the riot for independence occurred, trekking through Baliem Valley and ended my travel in Raja Ampat. It took over 24 hours to get Papua. Long journey to get to this part of Indonesia but it's totally worthwhile. 

Papua is rugged, wild and untouched. It was only found by an American zoologist in 1938. Prior to the discovery, the tribes of Baliem Valley lived in stone age era and practiced cannibalism. It wasn't easy planning a solo trip to Papua as information available online is fairly limited. After months of researching, I made my way there, travelling only with my 26 litre rucksack that weighs just 6.5kg 😊

I trekked through in the mountains of Baliem Valley,  staying with local villagers in their homes. Trekking through the valleys can be challenging at times,  with long steep climbs, river crossing, ankle-deep mud and walking across precarious bridges. The view however, is totally mind-blowing! 

I've survived the entire time living without running water, electricity nor phone coverage and eating sweet potatoes 3 times a day! It was peaceful, being totally disconnected from the rest of the world. That wasn't a hardship for me, but a pure bliss instead. Adventures like this reminded me of gratitude, to be thankful of the life I have. Sweet potatoes, sago and sweet potato leaves is the regular diet of the tribes in Baliem Valley. Rice, if they could afford it. No meat nor fish. Pork is celebratory treat, for Christmas and special celebrations. 

Baliem Valley is magnificent. Its untouched beauty leaves me in awe. It is filled with wonderful people who barely have anything but a heart of gold. Memories with them are carved in a very special place in my heart. 

I spent my days with the villagers in the mountains helping them with their daily chores, washing-up in the river. I taught the local kids English & they taught me singing in Papuan! We sometimes watched photos and videos of my travels on my phone and I told them my travel tales and life back home. It regularly made me smile seeing the sparkle in their eyes, imagining the world outside their villages. I brought a few frisbees and left them as gifts. The kids in the villages usually have 1 football shared between the entire village. Most don't go to school; either because schooling is unaffordable or they live deep the valleys that'll require hours to trek to the nearest village with a school. The littlies took me trekking through the mountains every afternoon. We trekked to the river/ waterfall every morning when the sun is out for a "Mandi".  It was indeed amazing to see children between 6-12 years old, running around barefoot crossing small path with 200m drop into a torrential river! There's a total freedom and no fear in their daily lives. What do kids in a civilised city do these days?! 

I ended my trip in Raja Ampat. I was there in March, fell in love with the beauty of the island and decided to go back. I spent an entire week there relaxing, before headed back to civilisation. 

I've had an absolutely amazing time in Papua despite some mishaps along the way. Not just I'm blown away by the beauty of it all, the Papuans are amazing souls and they've really touched my heart. 

Here are a few tips of an adventure in Papua. 

- Time required. Papua is still under developed. You'll need to time to fly or trek to most places
- Travelling through Papua isn't cheap for sure, possibly the most expensive part of Indonesia. An example, I paid IDR400, 000/ night (approximately RM180)for  accommodation in a homestay in Wamena. A guide to trek costs between IDR700,000- over IDR1mil a day. This sometimes doesn't include food/ stay in the mountains. 
- 3 flights to get to Baliem Valley. KL-MAKASSAR- JAYAPURA- WAMENA.  Wamena is the group zero for treks to Baliem Valley.
- Internet connection is very poor in Wamena, even it being a town! It took me 3 days trying to book a flight due to the slow internet connection. Cash (lots of them!) is required. Credit cards is no use because of the poor internet connection. No phone connections at all in the mountains. It was fantastic. I really enjoyed my days of being totally disconnected from the rest of the world!
- Bring your own medical supplies! I had awful bed bugs (and chuff knows what other bugs!) I brought some steroid medicines & antihistamines but they didn't help. I had to fly to Jayapura for a medical treatment. The 1 way flight to Jayapura costs me RM400 but the injection was only RM40! That didn't help either!
-I brought water purifying tablets but didn't use any. I even drank boiled water that the locals used. 
-I brought a few packets of sweeties and gave them to the local kids. They love sweeties and selfies!

If you love adventure and travelling through remote places where its beauty is untouched, then Papua is for you! I've had the best time of my life! I would return to Papua in a heartbeat!

You're more than welcome to follow my Papua & other travel adventure on my Instagram- Shannim Pym  @epicadventuress  or Facebook page. I've also written an article about Papua in Escape magazine, recent issue.

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